Archive for the ‘Lawn Care’ Category

2013-06-26 13.01.55The most important factors in maintaining a lawn are, 1. cutting frequency, 2. cutting height, and 3. sharpness of your lawnmower blades. If any of these is off, it will damage your lawn. Cutting too short is probably the number one mistake that do-it-yourselfers make on their own lawns. It is also the most frequent request we hear from our lawn care customers.

Cutting too short doesn’t allow the root system to grow. Short on top means short roots. Short roots means your lawn is weak, and will burn out after the first heat wave. Much like a tree, the taller your grass grows, the bigger the root system and the better able your grass is to support itself. In a drought, a lawn with longer roots will be able to extract moisture from lower points in the ground and survive longer.

Cutting too short makes it easier for weeds to gain a foothold in your lawn. A lawn that is allowed to grow a bit longer will develop what is known as a pre-emergent layer. When you cut grass too short, you break this layer, allowing weed seeds to germinate and take over your yard.

Cutting too short generates too many clippings, which in time will build a layer of harmful thatch into your lawn. The fallen clippings are slow to break down, basically becoming a layer of dead grass (thatch). The thatch will then become matted against the ground in your lawn, preventing the lawn from being able to breathe and absorb moisture. You will get thatch if you either cut too short or cut too infrequently. This is like throwing huge piles of clippings into your lawn.

The final reason – if you keep your lawn cropped high, the grass will thicken and fill into that space. It’s a lot like trimming a shrub. If you trim a shrub with enough regularity, instead of becoming taller, the shrub grows fuller – it is the plant growing within itself. As far as lawns, follow this method and yours will be thicker, which is exactly what you want.

How short is too short?

The ideal cutting height for any lawn in zone 6 is 3 ¾ to 4 inches. There is never a need to go any shorter. In fact: you never want to cut more than ¾ of the total length of the grass blade because it’s harmful to the grass itself as a plant. You basically only want to cut the top half of a blade of grass, ever.

My personal opinion: grass that’s a little bit taller feels softer under your feet. A lawn that’s scalped feels prickly and less like a carpet.

Need expert lawn care in Hunterdon County, NJ? Contact Mike at 4 Seasons Lawn Care for a quote today: call 908 783 5733 or email mikehyde@4seasonslawns.com


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STEP 1: Add topsoil to the uneven/bumpy areas.


STEP 2: Smooth it out with a rake.


STEP 3: Sprinkle grass seed over bare patches.

Add hay to prevent grass seed from blowing away/being watered away, and for even absorption of water.

STEP 4: Add hay to prevent grass seed from blowing away/being watered away, and for even absorption of water.

Water evenly and lightly, for 2 weeks, until grass patches begin to grow in.

STEP 5: Water evenly and lightly, for 2 weeks, until grass patches begin to grow in.

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Hey there, Mike from 4 Seasons Lawn Care here. With the early spring bloom happening in NJ this year, lawn care season started roughly a week and a half ago and is officially in progress as we speak. Be sure to contact us early to be put on the mowing schedule for 2012.

If you’re a new reader just finding this blog, check out our website at http://4seasonslawns.com or click the various posts on this blog and visit the About Us page to learn how we can help you have the nicest yard on the block!

Contact mike@4seasonslawns.com or call 908 783 5733 for your lawn cutting or spring cleanup quote today.

Also check out our other website, Garden Beds NJ, to find out how we can help make garden bed prep super simple this spring. Thanks!

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Hello to all readers and fans of the 4 Seasons Lawn Care blog! Just wanted to post a little “next up” on your lawn care calendar. Just because summer is nearly over doesn’t mean you can stop paying attention to your grass. A lush, green lawn requires regular maintenance, even at the end of the season.

As the hottest summer on record, June, July and August were brutal on your lawn. With no extended rainfalls, most of the grass in Hunterdon County went dormant and the weeds and crab grass took over. Since grass and weeds are always competing, this will likely impact your lawn next spring, and not in a good way. That is, unless you take the proper steps to ensure that your field of green makes a comeback. 4 Seasons Lawn Care can help!

This fall, simply overseeding will not be enough to turn the tide. A 4-step process is needed to re-establish grass in our yards.

1.  Aerate. This process involves pulling small plugs of soil from the yard. This loosens the top layer of soil and allows better penetration of water and nutrients to your grass’s root system.

2.  Dethatch. Once you’ve aerated, you’ll want to rake up the lawn using a heavy duty rake. This further roughs up the soil to allow for better growth of new grass.

3.  Overseed. This involves adding a covering of grass seed to an existing lawn.

4.  Add a starter fertilizer. High phosphorus fertilizer will help the newly planted grass to grow and develop strong roots.


Next spring, follow up with a weed preventer / fertilizer in the early spring. This prevents weeds from germinating on the lawn. Apply 2 weed and feed applications (late spring and early summer). These simultaneously feed the grass and kill the weeds.

To summarize: regrow grass in the fall. Then in the spring you should prevent weeds, and kill off whatever does germinate. This will give your grass what it needs to once again outnumber the weeds on your lawn and eventually crowd them out.

Lawns that are more than 50% weeds will not improve on their own. Some intervening steps are needed to get the grass back into shape.

Call 4 Seasons Lawn Care at 908 783 5733 for help. Ask for Mike Hyde! Or, email mikehyde@4seasonslawns.com. I look forward to hearing from you.

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Thanks for taking care of everything yesterday.  I really appreciated the offer of transportation to my doctor, but it was OK driving.  I injured the tendon in the sole of the right foot and it is going to take some time to heal.

I have enclosed your check, but have made it for an even 4.5 hours, instead of the 4.25 you billed for.

As soon as I am able to get around more easily I intend to start repairing the sheet rock in the basement stairway.  When I am thru, I will let you know what I have here in the line of brushes, poles, rollers etc.  I will also have the paint here.  At that time you can tell me when it will be convenient for you.  Remember there is no hurry, we have the entire winter ahead of us and that stairway has been that way for 16 years, it will wait a little longer.

Thank you for working for me and thank you for your friendship.  Keep in mind we would like an estimate on the retaining wall on the slope in the back yard.

I look forward to working with you in the future.



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